Indefiniteness. This word characterizes capital of Perú, Lima. Built along the coast of Pacific, it has a share on its infinity. Since the horizon is unable to embrace its vastness, grey gown of mist covers the city most of the time. Makes its lines blurred. Almost spectral. Yet the foundations of the metropolis are firm, going deep into the soil, deep into the history. It is here where the linear conception of time collapses. Past and present and future are co-existing, allowing city to organically integrates all the influences. You can perceive it. Just stroll through metropolis! Experience its overwhelming energy which shapes the substance as powerful demiurges. Yet you cannot stand here as neutral observer, maelstrom of present drags to its middle and makes from you its inherent part.
The main square, Plaza de Armas. Here the Spanish conquistadors were dreaming about the imperium lasting forever. And now they are forever gone. Yet their remnants remained. Magnificent churches and noble palaces are towering high. They were imposed over the people’s head as a crown of thorns in order to tame their defiant spirit. To make them bent down. But these symbols of oppression ultimately became the symbol of their faith and strength. Peruvians are now raising heads up to the heaven, testifying about the resilience of freedom, hope and courage.
As every city, even this one is pulsing. Streets are governed by creative chaos. Mighty, never-ending currents of cars are streaming through its veins. Roaring sounds of ringing horns are deafening. No public transport = neoliberal wet-dream = your nightmare. Only private minivans are taking travelers to their destination. Besides driver, there is another crew-man who is in charge of taking money. Sucre, Sucre, Toda la Marina…As a pimp, he is calling the name of bus-stops and price. These mini vans want to (ab)use as much space as possible. So they squeeze people in the van like tunas in a can and then they squeeze money of them. But who cares! When you step out, you can enjoy generosity of public space. Walk along broad boulevards lined with lulling palms. Inhale the charming atmosphere of town-squares dazzling with sublime colors. And parks! They are like bonbons from collection. Coming in different shapes and sizes. Resting in the shadow of ancient olive trees is so distinct from walking along pompous fountains. And how special is the university park of the PUCP (Peruvian Pontifical Catholic University)! You will get the impression that you are in paradise. Surrounded by plants and trees you have never seen. And besides that spotting deers which are roaming there freely, giving impression of divine tranquility. Despite all these differences, those parks share one feature – they will deliver you peace.
It is easy to taste the city. Wherever you go, pleasant aromas will be luring you as the sirens were luring Ulysses. But here is no risk that you imperil your life if you do not resist the calling. No matter whether you grab a food from the humble kiosk right at the street or whether you visit some posh restaurant… You will be delighted. For it is also the Peruvian cuisine which narrates you the story of the country. And it is the success story. Italian, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese and Moors… All these mighty nations have brought their own procedures, their own dishes, and their own cuisine. Yet the Peruvians did not succumb to their influence. They took the inspirations from these foreigners, creatively synthesized it with the strong domestic tradition and finally developed their gastronomy to the perfection. Thus every day in Lima is a part of voyage during which you can discover new continents on the gastronomic world-map.
Lima is unforgettable city. Yes, I have only explored its fragments, yet I managed to capture its overall spirit imbued with antiquity, pride and energy. It is because my partner Andrea was guiding me like a Vergil in the Divine Comedy - leading me of the deepest pits and baleful paths. It is because I totally submerged myself into its substance and thus the metropolis delivered me multi-dimensional experience. But the city also made its way into my heart and captured me. Forever. And I am more than glad for that.
Erik Kotlárik
Slovakia
SJD student
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