When asked why he had put his most beautiful and vivid details on the top of every building, where no one could see them, artist Ödön Lechner replied; “You idiots. You know nothing about art. I made it for the birds.” Indeed, who else could have seen the rooftops at nearly 100 meters high, more than 100 years ago? However, nowadays, with high buildings and drone cameras, we are able to appreciate Lechner's work far more than those living in his lifetime.
Lechner left behind a heritage of distinct architecture in the Art Nouveau style. It is said that Lechner was tired of all the neo-style buildings that Budapest's architecture had borrowed from other parts of the world and instead attempted to create a national Hungarian national style that would incorporate Hungarian folk life and use Hungarian materials. A style that looked to the future instead of indulging in the nostalgia that marked all major buildings in Budapest till the late 19th century. One of the award-winning project proposals that Lechner and his partner, Gyula Pártos, went by the codename “Go East, Hungarian” . This proposal gave birth to the Budapest Museum of Applied Arts opened in 1896, the third applied arts museum in the world.
You can see for yourself one of his masterpieces right in CEU's neighborhood. Only five minutes’ walk from Nador street, the Hungarian State Treasury or the former Royal Postal Savings Bank is considered to be some of the best of Lechner’s work . Standing at number 4 on Hold street, next to the less elegant Hungarian National Bank and almost opposite the four-star Hotel President, the building hides its charm from indifferent walkers who never bother to lift their heads up. If only they did so, they would at once discover an unusual mosaic, featuring lotuses and bees, on the façade of the building that distinguishes itself from the surrounding buildings less Hungarian in style. Looking a little higher to the top, a hen's heads and a bull’s head can be seen at the top of the building. The bull's head is said to represent “the nomadic past of the Magyars” . Inevitably, the eye will notice the colorful, bright material that never needs maintenance and lasts forever. The renowned Zsolnay ceramic tiles! Founded in 1853, the Zsolnay factory continues to manufacture ceramics, pottery, and tiles till this day.
So, take a break from the library, and immerse yourself in the beauty of Budapest hidden in the embroidery-like mosaic and the everlasting Zolnay tiles that Lechner left behind for us. And for the birds.
Giang Vu
School of Public Policy
Vietnam
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