If someone wants to learn how to smile in troubled times, Madagascar is a perfect destination. Helped by the genuine kindness and openness of islanders and by a strong religious belief, the Malagasy know how to live with problems never stopping to smile.
For three months, I lived in Madagascar with local families working with school children and visiting some of the most amazing sites on the island. These experiences gave me insight into the daily life of the Malagasy people. I got to know the unique environmental beauties of the fourth largest island on earth and observed the problems and controversies of a paradisiac island in crises. While eating a typical Malagasy meal consisting of rice and zebu, my host family was recalling the events of the past three years with understandable sadness. By unconstitutional means president Marc Ravalomana was removed by Andy Rajoelina, the young mayor of Antananarivo in 2009, who took over power by leading what is now known as the High Transitional Authority, the government of Madagascar unrecognized until today. Following the coup d`etat the financial support and foreign investment coming to Madagascar from Western countries was suspended, leaving those living in one of the poorest countries in the world, where 2/3 of the population lives under the poverty line, in even more troubled conditions. People skeptically wait for the elections in 2013 not even dreaming of free and fair voting, saying that the country is wallowing in corruption. Many fear (or hope) for revolts before the elections.
Signs of crisis can be seen almost everywhere. Infrastructure is old and in dangerous conditions. I think twice before taking a local bus, but in the end I have no other choice. I pray for a safe arrival jostled alongside chickens and roosters with other local travelers, while I cannot help but pause at the beauty of this country. Highlands of green rice fields framing red brick houses; seaside with wooden huts hidden among palm trees full of coconuts; fruit stands with mountains of mango and banana next to the roads; rain forests home to endemic plants and animals existing only in Madagascar. But the unique environment of the island is exposed to the whims of the weather and the irresponsible human activities. Cyclones sweep over the island each year destroying handmade homes. Massive deforestation leads to the loss of a great part of the original rainforests, threatening the habitat of species living nowhere else on the earth.
Working in Madagascar is just as exciting and adventurous as traveling. Schools are overcrowded teachers trying to teach classes of 50-60 students. The resources available to the schools are limited. Whole computer labs are packed with castoff computers from Europe, each of them troubled by numerous viruses. In the best case only 4 or 5 out of 20 – 30 are actually functioning. We have to wait long minutes before we are able to open even a simple Word program. Waiting time increases seriously when trying to open websites, at those rare times the internet connection is working.
The excitement of our students compensates us though for the headaches caused by the technical troubles. They are listening attentively our lesson about how to use a blog, checking their Facebook account in secret when we are not attentive enough. They are thrilled when we share our Facebook contact with them, just to write us a “hello, how are you” months after our departure and to make us smile on a busy working day.
After living with locals and traveling around the island I realize that Madagascar is actually a very rich country in resources, but the majority of the population is very poor. Perhaps this is exactly what makes the poverty even more troubling: the richness of the island, the presence of abundant natural resources. Not only has Madagascar a very unique wildlife and flora, but the red island is the world`s first supplier of vanilla, cloves and ylang-ylang. Other main products exported from the island are coffee and lychee. Besides agricultural products, Madagascar has important mineral resources including precious and semi-precious stones and reserves of oil and gas. Despite such wealth the majority of the population struggles. Some dream of leaving the country and living a better life in Europe or America, following the example of their family members or friends. Some learn and work hard to ensure a more secure future for their children on the island. Everyday people studying, working and dreaming of a better future like any of us. Patient and peaceful mothers, fathers, children, students, teachers, workers, living on this very unique and isolated island that keeps them calm and smiling even in difficult times.
Ilona Ilma Ilyes
IRES Almuna
Ilona Ilma Ilyes is a CEU IRES graduate currently working as program assistant at the School of Public Policy, Executive Education at CEU. Ilona visited Madagascar for 3 months in the framework of a project by the Hungarian Volunteer Sending Foundation in cooperation with GLEN (Global Education Network). For more impressions and photos about Madagascar please visit ilonailyes.wordpress.com
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